New Kitten Owner's Checklist

Feel free to ask us any questions in regard to any necessary pet supplies or kitten preparation information mentioned below.  We do our best to help you prepare for your new arrival, and although we don't have all the answers, we have done our best to provide you with a helpful checklist to start you off on the right track.  

Click here for a printable list of cat/kitten 'Safe & Toxic' plants

Chocolate Lynx Point Balinese Kitten And My Zoey

Welcoming Your New Kitten:

The thought of bringing home a new kitten can be at once exciting and overwhelming.  Here are some kitten-specific

suggestions that will help make your new friend's welcome a warm and lasting one.  

Kitten-Proof Your Home!

* Keep small items such as tinsel, rubber bands, buttons and beads out of reach–as your kitten could choke on them.

*Place all electric cords out of reach or secure them in cat proof tubing.

*Also be aware of those household products and plants that may be harmful to your new kitten(s).

New Kitten Supplies:

You should have the following supplies on hand at all times to provide your kitten with complete and proper care:

Food (I recommend the dry food, "LIFE'S ABUNDANCE", and "INSTINCTIVE CHOICE" canned)

Food & Water Bowls

NuVet Plus Feline Vitamins (To Order:  1-800-474-7044, mention referral code #7355077

Cat Carriet Crate With Comfortable Bedding

Litter Box Materials (Litter Pan, Litter Scooper, Litter Mat)

Bed (Comfortable & Washed Before It Is Used)

Scratching Post (or go nuts!  Invest In A Cat Condo or Cat Tree!)

I.D. Collar (A Safe Small 8-10 Inch Collar That Snaps Apart If The Kitten Gets Caught On Something)

Grooming Tools (De-Shedding Tool *Furminator*, and or a gentle brush)

Lots, and Lots of Toys...Especially feather teasers with bells or streamers!

Instructions To Proper New Home Introduction

Cat Carrier

Bring your new kitten home in  a cat carrier.  Cat carriers are a safe and familiar place for your kitten when you visit the veterinarian or travel, and can keep your curious excited little kitten out of trouble when outside of the home.

Litter Box

You can help your kitten to understand what is expected of him/her by placing it in the litter box after a feeding.  Kittens do not need a full-sized jumbo litter box, a normal average sized one works perfectly fine (covered for more privacy).  However when they grow up they may need a larger litterbox, espeially if they are to share the litterbox with another cat.  The rule of thumb is to have one litterbox per cat, to avoid accidents outside of the litterbox or fights between the cats over the 'one' litterbox.  If your home is fairly large and has many floors, you should have a litterbox per floor per cat to avoid accidents.

Litter Box Training

Watch your kitten closely.  When he/she begins nosing around in corners or squatting, place her in the litter box.  Gently scratch the kitten's front paws in the litter, so that it begins to learn that this is the place to deposit and bury waste.  If your kitten has an accident, wipe it up with a paper towel, and place the paper towel in the litter box.  Then place the kitten in the hlitter box and repeat the process of scratching with her front paws.  DO NOT punish your little kitten for having an innocent accident.  This won't help it to learn to use the litter box, it will only teach him/her not to eliminate in front of you.  When your kitten begins to understand, don't take her good behavior for granted.  Continue to praiser her for using the litter box successfully.

Grooming Your New Kitten

It is important to make your kitten feel comfortable about grooming from an early age.  Look into his/her eyes, ears, nose and mouth regularly.  Look at her paws to prepare her for claw trimming when he/she needs it.  Brush or comb your kitten regularly (using an anti-matting comb, or a furminator).  It is okay to give your kitten a 'wipe down' with a damp clean wash cloth.  When cleaniung them with a damp wash cloth start with the face first, then the ears inside and out, then the neck, and work your way down the cats body paying special close attention the paws, and the 'butt/genital' area last.  Keep a bucket handy with clean soapy water (cat shampoo) to keep dipping the wash cloth in and wringing it again to make it damp, as you focus on new body areas (face, feet, 'butt/genitals", back, etc).  Remember you are giving your kitty a spongebath as opposed to an actual bath which can remove needed body oils that keep the skin moisturized and prevent flaking, dry skin, itchy skin, hair loss.  If your kitty gets very filthy by going out into the mud or dirt or is very dirty from whatever source, of course giving kitty a bath will be necessary.  Try to look for a shampoo that has 'jojoba' as an ingredient, because this is an oily substsance that replenishes the moisture to the kitty's skin.  After washing or bathing, dry your kitten with a dry soft towel, not a blowdryer.  If you live in a cold climate, or if it is winter, then of course a blow dryer on the low to medium heat setting will be fine.  Turn up the heat in your home after bathing a cat in the winter if the temperature is very cold to avoid shaking, or an illness.


Kittens can benefit from a different kind of diet than adult cats, as their stomachs are smaller and their nutritional needs somewhat different.  Feed your kitten a food that is specially designed to meet his/her nutritional requirements.  Feed your kitten in small amounts, several times a day if using a commercial diet.  OR allow her to graze freely throughout the day if you are feeding him/her a holistic diet (i.e. Life's Abundance), or a high protein diet.  Read your kittens food labels carefully when choosing a commercial diet!  Cats are carnivors, and do not benefit nutritionally from any grains, or carbohydrates, or fruits or vegetables!  Kittens and cats need both dry kibble, and wet canned food.  Wet canned food should be high in protein (check the guranteed analysis to be at least 12% in crude protein).  Instinctive Choice which is part of the 'lifes abundance' holistic formula is a great wet canned food which has two different kinds of Omega fatty acids!  This oil is wonderful for keeping the skin moisturized, and keeping the cats hair shiny/glossy.  Remember, cats in the wild eat fresh prey (mice, rodents, birds, etc.), So feeding them a diet as high in protein and fatty oils is the closes when choosing a manufactured diet.  Some people go for feeding them 'raw' diets (like ground poultry and beef).  Cats can kill poultry and eat it, but not cows or pigs or lamb!  Instinctive choice contains chicken, turkey, and shrimp which are creatures that a cat can eat in the wild, and most importantly that their digestive system can properly digest and derive nutrition from.  


The most desirable age to adopt a kitten is between 8 and 12 weeks of age. Kittens obtained after 12 weeks may be more
difficult to train or manage.  The exception would be if the kitten or cat comes from a breeder or foster home that gives them the ‘home’ feel and training, as well as human-to-cat early socialization.. The experiences of kittens during their first few months of life are important in helping to shape their temperaments and personalities as adults. Your kitten will need time to adjust to her new environment, and understanding this is the first step in getting off to a positive start. Place your kitten in a small, quiet place, (preferably your bedroom, or a spare bedroom) with food and a litter box. As she becomes more comfortable, you can gradually allow her access to other rooms in the house. Talk quietly to your kitten and gently pet her. Set a regular time and place for feeding your kitten if you are feeding a commercial diet, otherwise if the kitten is on “Life’s Abundance” then she can be free fed (allowed to graze on dry kibble daily). A kitten separated from her litter-mates and deprived of play activity may demonstrate some behavior problems in later life. Play helps introduce her to her environment and is very important in her behavioral development. Stalking and pouncing on imaginary prey aids in a kitten's neural and muscular development. Your kitten’s socialization can be enhanced by frequent petting and handling, as studies show that petting a young kitten can make her more responsive as an adult cat. Exposing kittens to as many people as possible is important in helping to lessen their fear of strangers as adult cats. Kittens should also be introduced to children. Show children how to pet the kitten. A kitten not socialized with children may reject or even bite them after she has matured.  Our kittens are raised in our home with our children, so they are introduced to them from birth.  Always talk to your child about proper kitty play, and interaction.  There are great books available out there that show children through illustrated images the proper way to handle, play, and care for their cat.  Here are some good ones:  “How Do Dinosaurs Love Their Cats? By:  Jane Yolen, “All about cats and kittens’, by Emily Neye, as well as many articles online that help you teach your children proper cat or kitten handling/interaction.  

Introducing Your New Kitten to Other Pets
Keep your kitten confined to one room of the house for the first two weeks, giving your other pet(s) a chance to grow
accustomed to her smell.  When you bring a new kitten home make sure you get a dry dish towel or washcloth that is clean, and rub it all over your kitten's body to get her scent transferred onto it as well as any loose hair.  Then take that dish towel or washcloth and fold it under your current pets food and water bowl.  Your pet will smell the kitten every time it goes to eat, and will become accustomed to the scent (refresh the wash cloth every few days to keep the scent strong).  Do the same with your adult cat or other pets, take a separate wash cloth rub it all over their bodies catching the scent and loose hair, and place it under your new kittens food/water bowls.  This will also get your new kitten used to the other pets scent.  Make the first introduction short and sweet, removing the kitten after a few minutes.  When they first meet make sure that there are no distractions, and that you are allow the kitten to smell the other pets bottom (weird, but it works) and then let your older pet smell the kittens bottom.  Pet the kitten and then pet the other pets face to transfer the scent, and vice versa when they are first introduced. Cats and dogs recognize each other’s species, genders, and moods by each others scents, especially the bottom part areas (anus/genitals).  Most pets will work things out in their own way, which may take about a week  If your pets are having more difficulty adjusting, supervise their time together and be patient. Offer both pets a place to go when they want to be alone. Introducing a new kitten to an older animal can be very stressful on the older animal. Lavish most of your attention on the older animal, not the kitten as much especially in front of the other cat, making sure that the old-timer doesn't feel threatened or jealous by the newcomer.  After the older pet accepts and bonds with the kitten, then go ahead and make your love known and public for the kitten in front of the other pets.  

Holding and Carrying
Place one hand under your kitten’s chest and use your other hand to support the rear. Gently lift the kitten into the crook of your arm.  Hold them like you would a baby, except this one will have claws, so holding them carefully and gently will reassure the kitten that it is not in danger, nor will it be dropped by you.  Your kitten has to trust you, so make sure that you never drop or throw your kitten even when playing.  

Your new kitten will sleep up to 16 hours a day. Establish a sleeping place for her right away, but think twice before you
make that spot your bed. Once she gets comfortable, your kitten may sleep there for the rest of her life.

It's not a good idea to use hands, fingers, feet or clothing when playing with a kitten, as your cute little kitten will eventually grow into a healthy-sized cat and you do not want to encourage aggressive behavior. Providing appropriate toys for exercising her natural predatory instincts of pouncing, stalking and chasing will ensure she has a safe and healthy outlet for these behaviors. Do not use toys that are too heavy for the kitten to move or that are small enough to be swallowed.

Scratching Post
A scratching post is an excellent investment for your new kitten. It will allow your kitten to scratch, stretch and exercise all
at once.  Buying a cat tree with many levels and sisal rope will keep your kitten entertained for hours.  Invest in a good sturdy high quality cat tree that is both pleasing aesthetically to your eyes, and complimentary to your home decor.  Place it in an area with windows or natural light for best long term results.

Article Source:

Date:  9/23/2011

Home Safe Home:

Even cats that spend most of their time indoors may be exposed to a number of potential hazards. The following article will help

keep your home safe and sound for your cat.

Be aware of the plants you have in your house and in your yard. The ingestion of a poisonous plant (click the link for a list of

poisonous plants) may be fatal. When cleaning your house, never allow your cat access to the area where cleaning agents are used

or stored. Some may only cause a mild stomach upset, while others could cause severe burns of the tongue, mouth, and stomach

and may even be fatal. When using rat or mouse baits, ant or roach traps, or snail and slug baits, place the products in areas that

are inaccessible to your cat. Most bait contains sweet-smelling, inert ingredients, such as jelly, peanut butter, and sugars, which

can be very attractive to a cat. Never give your cat any medications unless under the directions of a veterinarian. Many

medications that are used safely in humans can be deadly to a cat. Keep all prescriptions and over-the-counter drugs out of the

reach of your cat, preferably in closed cabinets. Pain-killers, cold medicines, anti-cancer drugs, antidepressants, vitamins, and diet

pills are common examples of human medications that could be potentially lethal, even in small dosages.

Many common household items have been shown to be lethal in certain species. Miscellaneous items that are highly toxic even in

low quantities include pennies (high concentration of zinc), mothballs (contain naphthalene or paradichlorobenzene — one or two

balls can be life-threatening in most species), potpourri oils, fabric softener sheets, automatic dish detergents (contain cationic

detergents which could cause corrosive lesions), batteries (contain acids or alkali which can also cause corrosive lesions), homemade

play dough (contains high quantity of salt), winter heat source agents like hand or foot warmers (contain high levels of iron),

cigarettes, coffee grounds, and alcoholic drinks.

All automotive products, such as oil, gasoline, and antifreeze, should be stored properly. As little as one teaspoon of antifreeze

(ethylene glycol) can be deadly to a cat. Wash off any poisonous substance on your cat’s coat or skin before she licks it off and

poisons herself. Use cat-safe soap and warm water or give her a complete bath.

Before buying or using flea products on your cat or in your household, contact your veterinarian to discuss what types of flea

products are recommended for her. Read ALL information before using a product on your cat or in your home. Always follow label

instructions. Also, when using a fogger or a house spray, make sure to remove all pets from the area for the time period specified on

the container. If you are uncertain about the usage of any product, contact the manufacturer or your veterinarian to clarify the

directions BEFORE using the product.

When treating your lawn or garden with fertilizers, herbicides, or insecticides, always keep your cat away from the area until the

area dries completely. If in doubt, ask the manufacturer whether using the product may be harmful to your cat.

Sharp objects such as knives and forks, paper clips, carpet tacks and pins should be kept out of a cat's reach.

Children's toys and small objects may attract a playful cat and become lodged in her mouth or swallowed. Although kittens are

sometimes pictured with a ball of yarn, if ingested, yarn as well as thread and twine could cause serious damage to the intestinal


Lead paint should be removed with extreme caution. Cleanup should be prompt and thorough. Other items containing lead

accessible to cats include lead-base paint, linoleum, and caulking compounds. Signs of poisoning include vomiting, diarrhea or

constipation, loss of appetite, loss of muscle coordination, blindness and seizures.

Outside of the house, make sure your cat is clearly identified whether you use a collar and an identification tag or a more

permanent form of identification like tattooing.

A final thought if you have children in your home, many of the safety measures needed for pets are probably already in place.

**All information from this article was obtained  from the Purina website.

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