New Kitten Supplies:
You should have the following supplies on hand at all times to provide your kitten
with complete and proper care:
Food (I recommend the dry food, "LIFE'S ABUNDANCE", and "INSTINCTIVE CHOICE" canned)
Food & Water Bowls
NuVet Plus Feline Vitamins (To Order: 1-800-474-7044, mention referral code #7355077
Cat Carriet Crate With Comfortable Bedding
Litter Box Materials (Litter Pan, Litter Scooper, Litter Mat)
Bed (Comfortable & Washed Before It Is Used)
Scratching Post (or go nuts! Invest In A Cat Condo or Cat Tree!)
I.D. Collar (A Safe Small 8-10 Inch Collar That Snaps Apart If The Kitten Gets Caught
Grooming Tools (De-Shedding Tool *Furminator*, and or a gentle brush)
Lots, and Lots of Toys...Especially feather teasers with bells or streamers!
Instructions To Proper New Home Introduction
Bring your new kitten home in a cat carrier. Cat carriers are a safe and familiar
place for your kitten when you visit the veterinarian or travel, and can keep your
curious excited little kitten out of trouble when outside of the home.
You can help your kitten to understand what is expected of him/her by placing it
in the litter box after a feeding. Kittens do not need a full-sized jumbo litter
box, a normal average sized one works perfectly fine (covered for more privacy).
However when they grow up they may need a larger litterbox, espeially if they are
to share the litterbox with another cat. The rule of thumb is to have one litterbox
per cat, to avoid accidents outside of the litterbox or fights between the cats over
the 'one' litterbox. If your home is fairly large and has many floors, you should
have a litterbox per floor per cat to avoid accidents.
Litter Box Training
Watch your kitten closely. When he/she begins nosing around in corners or squatting,
place her in the litter box. Gently scratch the kitten's front paws in the litter,
so that it begins to learn that this is the place to deposit and bury waste. If
your kitten has an accident, wipe it up with a paper towel, and place the paper towel
in the litter box. Then place the kitten in the hlitter box and repeat the process
of scratching with her front paws. DO NOT punish your little kitten for having an
innocent accident. This won't help it to learn to use the litter box, it will only
teach him/her not to eliminate in front of you. When your kitten begins to understand,
don't take her good behavior for granted. Continue to praiser her for using the
litter box successfully.
Grooming Your New Kitten
It is important to make your kitten feel comfortable about grooming from an early
age. Look into his/her eyes, ears, nose and mouth regularly. Look at her paws to
prepare her for claw trimming when he/she needs it. Brush or comb your kitten regularly
(using an anti-matting comb, or a furminator). It is okay to give your kitten a
'wipe down' with a damp clean wash cloth. When cleaniung them with a damp wash cloth
start with the face first, then the ears inside and out, then the neck, and work
your way down the cats body paying special close attention the paws, and the 'butt/genital'
area last. Keep a bucket handy with clean soapy water (cat shampoo) to keep dipping
the wash cloth in and wringing it again to make it damp, as you focus on new body
areas (face, feet, 'butt/genitals", back, etc). Remember you are giving your kitty
a spongebath as opposed to an actual bath which can remove needed body oils that
keep the skin moisturized and prevent flaking, dry skin, itchy skin, hair loss. If
your kitty gets very filthy by going out into the mud or dirt or is very dirty from
whatever source, of course giving kitty a bath will be necessary. Try to look for
a shampoo that has 'jojoba' as an ingredient, because this is an oily substsance
that replenishes the moisture to the kitty's skin. After washing or bathing, dry
your kitten with a dry soft towel, not a blowdryer. If you live in a cold climate,
or if it is winter, then of course a blow dryer on the low to medium heat setting
will be fine. Turn up the heat in your home after bathing a cat in the winter if
the temperature is very cold to avoid shaking, or an illness.
Kittens can benefit from a different kind of diet than adult cats, as their stomachs
are smaller and their nutritional needs somewhat different. Feed your kitten a food
that is specially designed to meet his/her nutritional requirements. Feed your kitten
in small amounts, several times a day if using a commercial diet. OR allow her to
graze freely throughout the day if you are feeding him/her a holistic diet (i.e.
Life's Abundance), or a high protein diet. Read your kittens food labels carefully
when choosing a commercial diet! Cats are carnivors, and do not benefit nutritionally
from any grains, or carbohydrates, or fruits or vegetables! Kittens and cats need
both dry kibble, and wet canned food. Wet canned food should be high in protein
(check the guranteed analysis to be at least 12% in crude protein). Instinctive
Choice which is part of the 'lifes abundance' holistic formula is a great wet canned
food which has two different kinds of Omega fatty acids! This oil is wonderful for
keeping the skin moisturized, and keeping the cats hair shiny/glossy. Remember,
cats in the wild eat fresh prey (mice, rodents, birds, etc.), So feeding them a diet
as high in protein and fatty oils is the closes when choosing a manufactured diet.
Some people go for feeding them 'raw' diets (like ground poultry and beef). Cats
can kill poultry and eat it, but not cows or pigs or lamb! Instinctive choice contains
chicken, turkey, and shrimp which are creatures that a cat can eat in the wild, and
most importantly that their digestive system can properly digest and derive nutrition
The most desirable age to adopt a kitten is between 8 and 12 weeks of age. Kittens
obtained after 12 weeks may be more
difficult to train or manage. The exception
would be if the kitten or cat comes from a breeder or foster home that gives them
the ‘home’ feel and training, as well as human-to-cat early socialization.. The experiences
of kittens during their first few months of life are important in helping to shape
their temperaments and personalities as adults. Your kitten will need time to adjust
to her new environment, and understanding this is the first step in getting off to
a positive start. Place your kitten in a small, quiet place, (preferably your bedroom,
or a spare bedroom) with food and a litter box. As she becomes more comfortable,
you can gradually allow her access to other rooms in the house. Talk quietly to your
kitten and gently pet her. Set a regular time and place for feeding your kitten if
you are feeding a commercial diet, otherwise if the kitten is on “Life’s Abundance”
then she can be free fed (allowed to graze on dry kibble daily). A kitten separated
from her litter-mates and deprived of play activity may demonstrate some behavior
problems in later life. Play helps introduce her to her environment and is very important
in her behavioral development. Stalking and pouncing on imaginary prey aids in a
kitten's neural and muscular development. Your kitten’s socialization can be enhanced
by frequent petting and handling, as studies show that petting a young kitten can
make her more responsive as an adult cat. Exposing kittens to as many people as possible
is important in helping to lessen their fear of strangers as adult cats. Kittens
should also be introduced to children. Show children how to pet the kitten. A kitten
not socialized with children may reject or even bite them after she has matured.
Our kittens are raised in our home with our children, so they are introduced to
them from birth. Always talk to your child about proper kitty play, and interaction.
There are great books available out there that show children through illustrated
images the proper way to handle, play, and care for their cat. Here are some good
ones: “How Do Dinosaurs Love Their Cats? By: Jane Yolen, “All about cats and kittens’,
by Emily Neye, as well as many articles online that help you teach your children
proper cat or kitten handling/interaction.
Introducing Your New Kitten to Other Pets
Keep your kitten confined to one room of
the house for the first two weeks, giving your other pet(s) a chance to grow
to her smell. When you bring a new kitten home make sure you get a dry dish towel
or washcloth that is clean, and rub it all over your kitten's body to get her scent
transferred onto it as well as any loose hair. Then take that dish towel or washcloth
and fold it under your current pets food and water bowl. Your pet will smell the
kitten every time it goes to eat, and will become accustomed to the scent (refresh
the wash cloth every few days to keep the scent strong). Do the same with your adult
cat or other pets, take a separate wash cloth rub it all over their bodies catching
the scent and loose hair, and place it under your new kittens food/water bowls. This
will also get your new kitten used to the other pets scent. Make the first introduction
short and sweet, removing the kitten after a few minutes. When they first meet make
sure that there are no distractions, and that you are allow the kitten to smell the
other pets bottom (weird, but it works) and then let your older pet smell the kittens
bottom. Pet the kitten and then pet the other pets face to transfer the scent, and
vice versa when they are first introduced. Cats and dogs recognize each other’s species,
genders, and moods by each others scents, especially the bottom part areas (anus/genitals).
Most pets will work things out in their own way, which may take about a week If
your pets are having more difficulty adjusting, supervise their time together and
be patient. Offer both pets a place to go when they want to be alone. Introducing
a new kitten to an older animal can be very stressful on the older animal. Lavish
most of your attention on the older animal, not the kitten as much especially in
front of the other cat, making sure that the old-timer doesn't feel threatened or
jealous by the newcomer. After the older pet accepts and bonds with the kitten,
then go ahead and make your love known and public for the kitten in front of the
Holding and Carrying
Place one hand under your kitten’s chest and use your other hand
to support the rear. Gently lift the kitten into the crook of your arm. Hold them
like you would a baby, except this one will have claws, so holding them carefully
and gently will reassure the kitten that it is not in danger, nor will it be dropped
by you. Your kitten has to trust you, so make sure that you never drop or throw
your kitten even when playing.
Your new kitten will sleep up to 16 hours a day. Establish a sleeping place
for her right away, but think twice before you
make that spot your bed. Once she
gets comfortable, your kitten may sleep there for the rest of her life.
It's not a good idea to use hands, fingers, feet or clothing when playing
with a kitten, as your cute little kitten will eventually grow into a healthy-sized
cat and you do not want to encourage aggressive behavior. Providing appropriate toys
for exercising her natural predatory instincts of pouncing, stalking and chasing
will ensure she has a safe and healthy outlet for these behaviors. Do not use toys
that are too heavy for the kitten to move or that are small enough to be swallowed.
A scratching post is an excellent investment for your new kitten.
It will allow your kitten to scratch, stretch and exercise all
at once. Buying a
cat tree with many levels and sisal rope will keep your kitten entertained for hours.
Invest in a good sturdy high quality cat tree that is both pleasing aesthetically
to your eyes, and complimentary to your home decor. Place it in an area with windows
or natural light for best long term results.