(F)requently (A)sked (Q)uestions
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Q1. Where are you located?
A1. We are located in Northern California, in a city called "Citrus Heights". We are less than 20 minutes away from Sacramento, Roseville, Folsom, Rocklin, Auburn, and Orangevale. We are about 35-
Q2. What type of cats do you breed?
A2. I breed Siamese cats, and Balinese cats. I specialize in the Applehead Siamese & Applehead Balinese, these cats are also commonly referred to as Traditional Siamese, Traditional Balinese, Old Style Siamese, Old Style Balinese, and sometimes even Thai Cats. I also breed Siamese Lynx Points, and Balinese Lynx Points (aka Snow Tigers).
Q3. What cat registry are you affiliated with?
A3. My cattery is registered with The International Cat Association (T.I.C.A), and the Cat Fanciers Association (C.F.A.) & The Cat Fanciers Federation (C.F.F.). All of my breeding cats are registered with one or two of the mentioned cat registries. My kittens will leave registered with either of these registry's.
Q4. Do you offer stud service? If not, why?
A4. Absolutely not. Any reputable breeder will never bring outside cats into their home because of the serious risks of diseases, parasites, fungus that may enter the cattery by way of the breeding cat. Regardless of the fact that a female in heat may be examined by a veterinarian prior to a visit, there are dormant diseases that could potentially awaken during the mating trial and infect the male and surrounding areas of confinement. When new cats are introduced into our home, they are quarantined for several months, and tested for diseases like Feline Leukemia, Feline Aids, etc. Any breeder with experience in breeding will follow these standards as a rule.
Q5. What does your 72 hour health guarantee entail?
A5. Kittens that leave my home are to be brought to a licensed veterinarian of the buyers choice within a period of 72 hours from the date of sale. If your kitten is found to be unsuitable as a pet due to suspected health problems it may be returned back to my cattery with the veterinary report as proof, and a refund of the kittens purchase price shall be given to the buyer. This refund however does not include veterinary or transportation expenses. Please be assured that all of my kittens are examined by my veterinarian thoroughly, especially since they have to be approved for spaying & neutering. This puts a lot of pressure on me as a breeder to keep my cats and kittens healthy, and my cattery environment spotless.
Q6. What happens if I don't have the kitten examined by my veterinarian within the 72 hours of purchase?
A6. As a consumer you should ensure that your kitten was healthy when purchased from the breeder, and therefore I encourage you to bring the kitten in for a health examination through your own veterinarian. But if you don't take me up on my 72 hour health guarantee you may lose your opportunity to get your money back for a kitten that may be unhealthy to begin with.
Q7. What are your extended hereditary/congenital/genetic health guarantees about? Most breeders I see give only a 1 year health guarantee.
A7. Because I know the lines I have in my breeding program, I know full well that they are genetically sound and therefore I have no fear of backing up my kittens longer than is traditionally done by most breeders. There may be problems later on down the road after the 1st year, and I believe that it is fair to protect my clients for a longer term just in case if they so choose. I currently offer a first birthday guarantee replacement at half the cost of the kitten purchased as long as the replacement kitten is of the same breed. Clients who choose the limited 1st birthday guarantee do not have to commit nor supplement their kittens with NuVet plus vitamins. Clients who choose an extended health guarantee will get a ½ purchase price replacement kitten as well assuming that the kitten is of the same breed for replacement, but their term for replacement goes beyond the kittens first birthday. These clients who choose the extended health guarantee will need to purchase and supplement their kittens with the NuVet plus vitamin powder for their selected term in order for us to keep our replacement promise. Sometimes some genetic or hereditary diseases may not become apparent until after the 1st birthday, in which case you would not have a replacement from a breeder offering only a one year health guarantee. Please be aware that in order for me to back up your kitten for 2, 3, or 4 years, you will be contractually obligated to supplement my cat(s)/kitten(s) with NuVet plus Vitamins for the length of the term you select (2, 3, or 4 years). Our referral code (7355077) must be used when ordering your vitamins in order for us to confirm that you have in fact ordered your vitamins, and that you are continuing to order the vitamins for the length of your chosen term. Yes, there is a commission afforded to us by NuVet plus, and we use those funds to continue purchasing our vitamin powder which we in turn feed to our cats and kittens to ensure health and immunity whilst in our care. This is another reason why we offer an extended health guarantee beyond the usualy 1 year guarantee that most breeders adhere to. We do not have to provide an extended guarantee, but we choose to do so for the health and longevity of our cats, and their offspring.
Q8. Why is it important to supplement the kittens with NuVet plus Vitamins? And, what is NuVet plus like?
A8. NuVet plus vitamins are manufactured in powder form that is meant to be sprinkled on the kittens food (not water). The powder vitamins are tasty, palatable and give the food an enhancement in flavor and act as a cleanser too. No cat food on the market today has enough vitamins for a growing kitten, and that is why supplementing the kittens with the vitamins is important to promote normal growth, and stronger immune support. It is in my best interest as well as the kittens, and yours to keep the kitten healthy and strong as it develops and ages. The vitamins may be ordered directly from my web-
Q9. What kind of vet treatments do your kittens come with?
A9. All of my kittens sold as pets will leave spayed or neutered, micro chipped, with 1 or 2 feline distemper vaccines, and a health examination by my vet. See my link to the 'Kitten Kits' page, it explains everything in detail regarding vet treatments and supplies I send with each kitten sold as a pet.
Q10. Isn't early spaying and neutering too risky for young kittens?
A10. Actually, early spaying and neutering has been endorsed by the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association) since 1993, with limited risks as technology has advanced to the present day. The only true risk to early spaying and neutering is if too much sedation gas is given to the kitten based on it's body weight, because then it is gassed to death. But let's be frank here, that same risk goes along with adult cats or older kittens, puppies and dogs. If a veterinary assistant doesn't weigh the cats correctly, as well as measure the gas correctly then any cat (young, or old) may die. In the 5+ years that I have been practicing the early spaying and neutering of my kittens I have yet to lose one kitten due to spay/neuter surgery complications. See my informational page on early spaying and neutering for more on Early Spay & Neuter.
Q11. What do you feed your kittens & cats?
A11. I feed my adult cats and kittens "Life's Abundance" cat food. It is a holistic diet that uses human grade ingredients, and feeds all life stages out of the same bag. My kittens also eat wet food made by "Life's Abundance" called Instinctive Choice as a treat mixed with dry 3-
Q12. At what age do you release your kittens to their new homes?
A12. Kittens leave my home generally at about 12 weeks of age. They are spayed/neutered around 10-
Q13. How often do you photograph your kittens?
A13. Kittens are photographed every 2-
Q14. What are your thoughts on de-
A14. I do not condone, or support this procedure as it is often times traumatic enough to alter a friendly kittens personality into that of a nervous, paranoid, territorial, and temperamental cat. Cats need their claws not only for self protection, but also for climbing, balancing, and grooming. There are many other ways of deterring your kitten from scratching you or family members, or furniture (even unwanted climbing of certain areas in your home), and those are: 1. Clip their nail tips regularly with a cat nail trimmer (found in all pet stores), have the vet show you how to do this if you are inexperienced. 2. Try softpaws silicone covers, they are available at most pet stores in a variety of colors and styles. 3. Keep a scratching post around for the kitten/cat to access for it's scratching needs. The best solution to unwanted scratching from your kitten is if you buy a cat condo with sisal rope, they will climb it, scratch it, and use that rather than your furniture. Remember that the bigger the condo the more fun and exciting it will be to your kitten...and it may spend the majority of it's time on the cat condo/cat tree overlooking the lay of his or her land (your home). Feel free to read some informative articles about de-
Q15. Do you recommend getting 2 kittens rather than 1? Additionally, do you offer a discount if I buy 2 or more
kittens rather than 1?
A15. This is truly a decision that you must make on your own, because of the added cost for a second kitten, and the amount of attention they will both need from you. Generally most breeders will recommend that you acquire two kittens if the kitten is left home alone for more than 7 hours a day, 4 or more days a week. I do offer a discount of $50.00 off the 2nd kitten if you buy two or more, and although the discount is minimal, keep in mind that my expenses to raise the kittens, adult cats, veterinary treatments/services, run a cattery stay the same whether you buy 1 or 2 or 3 kittens.
Q16. How do you socialize your kittens?
A16. Our kittens are handled daily from birth as they are inspected for proper growth & development. They are kissed often and spoken to, and once the kittens are out of the birthing box they are played with often, and observed for personality traits. We do not sell fractious, aggressive, wild kittens.
Q17. Do you de-
A17. Yes, we do. We de-
Q18. Do you ship your kittens?
A18. I prefer that my kittens e picked up from my home locally, rather than to have them shipped. However, certain criteria has to be met in order for me to ship a kitten as ‘live cargo’ via the airlines. For more information and details about this subject, please feel free to contact me by phone or by e-
Q19. How much does shipping a kitten cost?
A19. Shipping ranges anywhere from $450.00-
Q20. Do you ever sell adult cats?
A20. Yes, from time to time I do. My female cats are usually retired at 4 -
Q21. What cat litter do you use?
A21. I use two kinds of cat litter. The first one that I use is called Dr. Elsy's Precioius Cat Scoopable Cat Litter. It's a safe silica based cat litter, that is strong in odor control, yet gentle enough for litter-
Q22. I noticed that you spay & neuter your kittens early and before they are sold, but can I have my kitten intact and then spay & neuter it myself through my vet?
A22. No. Only kittens that are intended to be a part of a reputable and responsible breeding program will be sold intact. Please refer to Q10 for the benefits of early spaying & neutering.
Q23. I've heard that microchips cause tumors in animals, can I have my kitten sold to me without a microchip implant?
A23. We use transponder chips, and these chips are not known to cause cancers or tumors at the injection site or
around it. Additionally, most pet microchips are bio-
Q24. How much are your kittens sold for?
A24. Please note that not all breeders operate the same or prepare their kittens the same way, and not all breeders are the same. Every breeder charges what they feel is fair for the quality of the kittens they produce, as well as the amount of veterinary treatments and care that they invest into each kitten. With that being said, please call me for a price quote, and be prepared to answer the following questions I will ask: 1. What are you looking for (Siamese or Balinese or Either), 2. What gender (male or female or either). 3. What colorpoints are you interested in (Seal, Chocolate, Blue, Lilac, or Lynx Pointed). 4. How soon are you ready for a kitten (today, within a month or so, or longer). The answers to these questions will help me determine your price quote.
Q25. Where are your Siamese kittens and Balinese kittens sold?
A25. I sell my Siamese kittens and Balinese kittens primarily in California (i.e. Sacramento, The Bay Area, San Francisco, San Jose, Los Angeles, San Diego, areas). I have sold kittens throughout most of the 50 continental states in the USA. My Siamese & Balinese Kittens are sold in the following states: California, Alaska, Hawaii (quarantine), Washington, Oregon, Idaho, Nevada, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, New Mexico, North Dakota, South Dakota, Nebraska, Kansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas, Missouri, Iowa, Minnesota, Wisconsin, Illinois, Michigan, Indiana, Kentucky, Tennessee, Alabama, Georgia, Florida, South Carolina, North Carolina, Virginia, West Virginia, Ohio, Maryland, Washington D.C., Delaware, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Connecticut, Rhode Island, Massachusetts, New York, New Hampshire, Vermont, Maine. I do not sell kittens internationally (except for Canda, and Mexico), unless the kitten/cat is picked up locally from the international buyer.
Q26. Do you allow in-
A26. This is a great question, and my short answer is, no. Firstly, let me point out that not all breeders operate the same way and so visiting policies can vary from breeder to breeder. I spay and neuter all of my kittens that are sold as pets, and in order for them to qualify for the early spaying and neutering surgery, they have to be in absolute perfect health, as well as meet certain criteria according to our vet’s requirements (i.e., they must be 2 pounds in weight, be at least 8 weeks old, and not ill or recovering from an illness). In my past experiences when visitors would touch, or interact with the kittens, the kittens would become stressed because they would be afraid, away from mom, in an unfamiliar setting, hungry (nursing), and this stress could at times trigger an upper respiratory infection. Additionally the queen (mom cat) would get nervous, move her kittens around (hide them), and be anxious because her kittens were taken out of their birthing box or because an unfamiliar person visited her birthing environment. The stress of having to medicate kittens, and then the possibility of other litters becoming infected (chain reaction) could drive anyone batty, plus their projected ‘release’ dates would now be pushed out further, as well as their surgery dates (for early spaying/neutering). The kittens go through enough stress as it is nursing in a large litter, or weaning and litter box training at 4 weeks old, then getting de-
Q27. Can you tell me about gender personalities?
A27. Let’s start with females. Females are affectionate and playful as kittens, just like males. However, as they mature in age, they tend to become more independent, and can develop the ‘diva’ syndrome. That’s where they believe that they are the queens of the home. Females tend to bond more with the men in the family, and they are more patient with younger children. They also enjoy grooming, and attention. Mature female cats give affection on their terms, which means that you can pet them, hold them, and love on them when they say it’s okay, and for whatever length of time they choose. Moving onto the males now: Males are affectionate, playful, rambunctious, as kittens. As they mature in age, they continue to keep a lot of their kitten like qualities. They are considered overly affectionate, always demanding love, touching, and kisses. They can get very pushy with their affections at times, especially with the women (females) in the family. If you want a co dependant cat, and you need a constant little shadow at your side, then a male will fit the bill in most cases. If you are a low energy person or personality, then do not choose a male kitten, as they will become detached from you over time, or become destructive in order to have attention and their needs met.
Q28. What are the best kitten pairings in terms of gender?
A28. If you are considering acquiring two kittens, the n the best gender combinations are: Male & Female, followed by Male & Male, and lastly Female & Female. I will now elaborate on the dynamics of these pairings.
Q29. Do you recommend any cat behavioral training books or material?
A29. Yes, the best training resource that I have found is an e-
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